As could possibly be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has received many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented by using a floppy fringe and a suit. But while some of his tries to toughen up have been met with derision, the most recent step in the Biebvolution is really bang about the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been a lot of layering – and many raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment at the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) although the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is certainly sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top plus a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for males, but the single thing you might never think of it is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore on the teen awards, has been integral towards the increase in demand for denim and also of jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that was roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; in close proximity, the holes in these knits are layered across a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been all over just about the most talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is only set to carry on: after the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label continues to be maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes seem like a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
Actually, if all else fails, the real key to this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – along with the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the opposite of all the justin bieber t shirt that has been the headline news in menswear in the past few years. And then finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t look like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you know what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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